Update on the Kenya Trip

Time for a fast update on the trip to Kenya. First, the new passport arrived. After jumping through the hoops presented by the powers-that-be, along with sending $52.25 to a service that will retrieve a certified, embossed copy of my birth records, the process was a breeze. I'm still a bit unclear why I needed a certified copy instead of the embossed certificate I had that was given to my mother on my birth, but it's the government. Arguing simply delays the inevitable, which surrender to the bureaucracy.

Next came the research phase and that will continue until wheels up, currently scheduled for December 27th. So far this week, I've read Kenya - Culture Smart by Jane Barsby,  How To Be A Kenyan by Wahome Mutahi, and Uncertain Safari by Allan Winkler. On the darker side, I've started Histories of the Hanged by David Anderson which details the Mau Mau rebellion. I also got a map of Kenya so I can build up my mental reference points for the places mentioned in the various books. All in all, a good start.

Not a history or cultural guide, Determined Runners by Justin Lagat was an interesting read and short enough to complete in one sitting. This was the first book I've read on my new iPad and a part of the test on which computer to take with me. Anyway, I thought the book offered a different and will put up a short review later in the week. Justin is a regular contributor to RunBlogRun.

Did you know that Kenya uses 240v, 50 hertz power? Nope, neither did I. Looks like I need to find out where to get a transformer once I get in-country. I've played this game before, in Australia. The plug-ins are different, too, but I can buy adapters for those before I leave.

This assumes that I will be in an area with power. I have an invite to Nandi Hills, home ground for Kip Keino, Henry Rono (one of my favorite runners and author of Olympic Dream), Janeth Jepkosgei (with the totally cool nickname of "Eldoret Express"),and Mike Boit. If I end up in the outerlying villages, which hopefully I will, power and running water may be a bit on the iffy side.

I also have checked in with Richard and Andrea Kaitany who run Simbolei Academy. The Academy exists to expand the opportunities for Kenyan girls who live far from the urban centers. Due to the economics of the region - culturally very rich, but cash poor - girls often are not able to attend school past the primary grades. Richard and Andrea recognized a need and sprang into action. Building the Academy takes time, though, and money. Buying seven acres of land from a closed sawmill, they've begun to transform the property into a school. They also have a cottage for rent. No word on openings during my visit, but I'm very hopeful.

Found a fun sounding B&B style house for the time I'm in Nairobi.

There's a whole slew of vaccinations I need, plus malaria medication. Frances, my doctor, will be thrilled. She'll also question my sanity, but she's been doing that for years anyway, so it's no extra bother.

I checked out driving in Kenya, and decided to rely on public transportation. They drive on the wrong side of the road (Yank perspective) and I won't be there long enough to make the adaptation to driving on the left. It should be enough time to reawaken the Australian habits of looking right, left, right before crossing traffic. I'll just have to remember to keep my head on a swivel when I get back, lest I get caught looking the wrong way and step in front of a bus.

Not worried about food. If it can't outrun me, it counts. Except for Brussels Sprouts. I have a catch-and-release program for those.

I plan on running while I'm in Kenya. Fortunately, I'm pretty sure the Kenyans are much too polite to laugh. Unless they've imbibed Chang'aa - their version on moonshine. The literal name means "kill me quick." Still, I can't go to Kenya and not run. Shoot, I can't go to Indianapolis and not run. Indy is not nearly as exciting. So I'll be running.

You know the punch line for the joke about out-running a lion? - "I just need to outrun you!" Know how fast the Kenyans are?

Really hoping not to come across hungry lions.

The Kids Moved Out, and the Dog Died. It's Time.

The title of today's post comes from a comment I've been making to friends for the last couple of years. I've wanted to make a trip to Kenya, but life considerations took precedence. First, I only get a limited amount of time to be a dad. Unless I ran into a pressing necessity, like putting food on the table, I wanted to be there for the girls. A two month trip, solo, didn't fit, so like many other things that parents put aside, this one got shoved onto the 'Someday' list.

The second was the dog. Stitch, the last of our dogs (until the next one), had enough health issues to depress any human. Being Stitch meant always being happy. He was happiest when I was around. I was his 'guy'. Probably didn't hurt that I'm the big softie in the family. Towards the end of his life, he would stress when I took business trips and greet me with exuberant barks on return. Then he would bring me all his special toys, and share. Until just near the end, he would follow me wherever I went in the house.

You don't abandon loyal partners, ever.  

Now I've reached the point where all the girls have moved out, and started their own families. They're busy crafting their own futures and creating their own memories with my grandkids. Pretty awesome to watch, but I'm no longer critical to the events. Nor do I have a faithful four-legged companion to feed, pet, and holler at when he'd be underfoot.

It's time. Yesterday I went down to the post office to start the paperwork for a passport. I haven't needed one in decades. I showed up with application and birth certificate in hand - and had the original birth certificate, the one given to my mother - rejected. Apparently, they need a certified copy. In 1962, no one thought it necessary to certify that the actual government-issued document needed additional certification. For a mere $52.25, this is fixable.

I don't expect that this will be the last roadblock that pops into view. In the meantime, I've started laying the groundwork for the visit. There's a surprising lack of detailed information on Kenya. I'm working my way through two travel guides, but they focus on the major touristy places. My story waits in the rural areas, far from Nairobi. Since it's a running story, I'll hit Eldoret and Iten, at least for visits.

I contacted the High Altitude Training Center, founded by Lornah Kiplagat, and have exchanged very pleasant emails with Kevin. There are a fair number of training centers in the region, catering to both Kenyans and Westerners looking to improve. Since that's not why I'm heading there, I sought out Lornah Kiplagat and the HATC because of the Lornah Kiplagat Foundation, a separate entity.

Kevin has been most helpful, inviting me to a tour of the facility when I get there and trying to find someone who can guide me into the rural communities so I can meet the families and being to understand their lives.

The story that I want to write involves Kenyans coming to the US and the resulting culture shock. Most of those runners are coming from the most impoverished regions, not the cities. As I considered the idea - and thought about people to reach out to in the US like Bernard Lagat - a growing realization struck me. Almost all the Kenyans coming this way are male.

Photo from the Lornah Kiiplagat Foundation website.

Why?

I have some ideas. Indeed, Lornah's foundation's site gives a goodly part of the answer:

Unlike the western world, participation in (primary) education is not a given in Kenya. Particularly girls are not always given the opportunities that are rightfully theirs. The large setup of most families means that parents often cannot afford to send all of their children to school. As a result, usually only the boys are sent to school and the girls lose out. A missed opportunity according to Lornah Kiplagat.

I could probably build a story just off that comment, but I'm betting that isn't the only factor. I could invent other stuff and pretend, but that would leave me with a story that isn't authentic. No bueno. I need to be in country and learn to think as a Kenyan. A couple of years would be nice, but I don't have that much time, so I'm starting with a six week trip.

Assuming they let me have a passport. I'll keep you posted. Target date for wheels-up and headed to Kenya is December 27th.